This circuit features an intermittent siren output and automatic reset. It can be operated manually using a key-switch or a hidden switch; but it can also be wired to set itself automatically when you turn-off the ignition. By adding external relays you can immobilize the bike, flash the lights etc. I have used Andy's Asymmetric Timer as the basis for this design.
Skema Rangkaian IC 555 Motorcycle Alarm Any number of normally-open switches may be used. Fit "tilt" switches that close when the steering is moved or when the bike is lifted off its side-stand or pushed forward off its centre-stand. Use micro-switches to protect removable panels and the lids of panniers etc.
The alarm's standby current is virtually zero - so it won't drain your battery. Once activated - the rate at which the siren switches on and off is controlled by R7, R8 & C4. For example, increasing R7 will make the sound period longer - while increasing R8 gives longer silent periods.
The circuit is designed to use an electronic Siren drawing 300 to 400mA. It's not usually a good idea to use the bike's own Horn because it can be easily located and disconnected. However - if you choose to use the Horn - remember that the alarm relay is too small to carry the necessary current. Connect the coil of a suitably rated relay to the "Siren" output. This can then be used to sound the Horn, flash the lights etc.
The circuit board and switches must be protected from the elements. Dampness or condensation will cause malfunction. Connect a 1-amp in-line fuse AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE to your power source. This is VERY IMPORTANT. The fuse is there to protect the wiring - not the alarm. Exactly how the system is fitted will depend on the make of your particular machine - so I'm unable to provide any further help or advice in this regard.
When you set the alarm - if one of the switches is closed - the siren will sound. This could cause annoyance late at night. A small modification will allow you to Monitor The State Of The Switches using LEDs. When the LEDs are all off - the switches are all open - and it's safe to turn the alarm on
Source: http://www.zen22142.zen
The alarm's standby current is virtually zero - so it won't drain your battery. Once activated - the rate at which the siren switches on and off is controlled by R7, R8 & C4. For example, increasing R7 will make the sound period longer - while increasing R8 gives longer silent periods.
The circuit is designed to use an electronic Siren drawing 300 to 400mA. It's not usually a good idea to use the bike's own Horn because it can be easily located and disconnected. However - if you choose to use the Horn - remember that the alarm relay is too small to carry the necessary current. Connect the coil of a suitably rated relay to the "Siren" output. This can then be used to sound the Horn, flash the lights etc.
The circuit board and switches must be protected from the elements. Dampness or condensation will cause malfunction. Connect a 1-amp in-line fuse AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE to your power source. This is VERY IMPORTANT. The fuse is there to protect the wiring - not the alarm. Exactly how the system is fitted will depend on the make of your particular machine - so I'm unable to provide any further help or advice in this regard.
When you set the alarm - if one of the switches is closed - the siren will sound. This could cause annoyance late at night. A small modification will allow you to Monitor The State Of The Switches using LEDs. When the LEDs are all off - the switches are all open - and it's safe to turn the alarm on
Source: http://www.zen22142.zen